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The Wepstec Outdoors minor gunsmithing project for this month is a simple stock
repair. It all started with my last trip to the shooting range with my Model 1859
Pedersoli Sharps. It was a beautiful Indian summer day, just as the summer heat
was beginning to fade. My wife and youngest son accompanied me for an
afternoon of shooting at our favorite (most handy) shooting range. She had
never fired a 22 rifle and she and my son needed practice at the range to
prepare for their Hunter’s Safety Course.
My Sharps has a Vernier sight I was checking MOA and using up a few rounds
had made. I was very interested in the difference in shot placement between the
paper rounds and the brass “cartridge’’ rounds made from the thick walled
Maynard type brass cases available from Davide Pedersoli. The rounds are
markedly different, the cased round being a hand cast rebated mini and the
paper cartridge round a hand cast 380 grain ¾ ogive flat tip. Both rounds placed
shots near MOA at 50 and 100 yards, the heavier round placing them slightly
lower than the mini. The rifle can also be loaded through the breech with loose
powder and shot. One must be very careful to avoid powder overflow when doing
this, as power can get trapped between the fore grip and the barrel.
I was somewhat stunned by the resulting ignition of the stray powder grains and a
bit horrified at the resulting crack in the grip running from just forward of the
breech to half way up the grip. I was more than a little upset! I also knew that a
stock repair was not out of the question. At the time I did not know what caused
the crack, so I carefully placed the rifle in its protective scabbard, laced up the
end and we all went home.
Once back at Wepstec Central; the forensic examination of the rifle began. I
carefully removed the fore grip and studied the area of the primary break. The
wood was deeply charred and the barrel had powder residue on the metal. There
was a salty, sulfurous smell and taste to the residue (Wepstec does not
recommend tasting the residue). It was therefore determined that residual
powder had flashed underneath the stock and caused the cracked grip.
There are two remedies for a broken fore grip. Replace the grip or repair the grip.
To repair the grip one needs to remove the screw shrouds from the screw holes
so as to allow the wood to come to its natural at rest state. The grip should be
gently cleaned of any oil, grease or powder residue from the area in and near the
crack. Next, GENTLY separate the crack with a flat screwdriver or some such
appliance, being careful NOT to broaden the crack. Next, inject a good epoxy
waterproof woodworking glue. I recommend Gorilla Glue. If you use Gorilla Glue,
as per instructions, wet both sides of the surfaces to be glued slightly with water.
Inject the glue in the crack from end to end. Remove the screwdriver from the
crack and gently squeeze it in place. Then wipe away any excess glue. Do not
over apply the glue as gorilla glue will expand in the crack. Wipe the excess away
with a cloth. Clamp the crack closed… DO NOT over clamp and break the stock
further. Allow the glue to set and dry. I left mine for twenty four hours. The next
day I removed the clamp, lightly sanded the remaining hardened glue from the
crack, and dabbed a little oil finish over the affected area. Good as new.
The problem with this resolution is, I know there is a repaired crack on my favorite
gun. So option number two, replace the stock, will be covered in next month’s
issue.
repair. It all started with my last trip to the shooting range with my Model 1859
Pedersoli Sharps. It was a beautiful Indian summer day, just as the summer heat
was beginning to fade. My wife and youngest son accompanied me for an
afternoon of shooting at our favorite (most handy) shooting range. She had
never fired a 22 rifle and she and my son needed practice at the range to
prepare for their Hunter’s Safety Course.
My Sharps has a Vernier sight I was checking MOA and using up a few rounds
had made. I was very interested in the difference in shot placement between the
paper rounds and the brass “cartridge’’ rounds made from the thick walled
Maynard type brass cases available from Davide Pedersoli. The rounds are
markedly different, the cased round being a hand cast rebated mini and the
paper cartridge round a hand cast 380 grain ¾ ogive flat tip. Both rounds placed
shots near MOA at 50 and 100 yards, the heavier round placing them slightly
lower than the mini. The rifle can also be loaded through the breech with loose
powder and shot. One must be very careful to avoid powder overflow when doing
this, as power can get trapped between the fore grip and the barrel.
I was somewhat stunned by the resulting ignition of the stray powder grains and a
bit horrified at the resulting crack in the grip running from just forward of the
breech to half way up the grip. I was more than a little upset! I also knew that a
stock repair was not out of the question. At the time I did not know what caused
the crack, so I carefully placed the rifle in its protective scabbard, laced up the
end and we all went home.
Once back at Wepstec Central; the forensic examination of the rifle began. I
carefully removed the fore grip and studied the area of the primary break. The
wood was deeply charred and the barrel had powder residue on the metal. There
was a salty, sulfurous smell and taste to the residue (Wepstec does not
recommend tasting the residue). It was therefore determined that residual
powder had flashed underneath the stock and caused the cracked grip.
There are two remedies for a broken fore grip. Replace the grip or repair the grip.
To repair the grip one needs to remove the screw shrouds from the screw holes
so as to allow the wood to come to its natural at rest state. The grip should be
gently cleaned of any oil, grease or powder residue from the area in and near the
crack. Next, GENTLY separate the crack with a flat screwdriver or some such
appliance, being careful NOT to broaden the crack. Next, inject a good epoxy
waterproof woodworking glue. I recommend Gorilla Glue. If you use Gorilla Glue,
as per instructions, wet both sides of the surfaces to be glued slightly with water.
Inject the glue in the crack from end to end. Remove the screwdriver from the
crack and gently squeeze it in place. Then wipe away any excess glue. Do not
over apply the glue as gorilla glue will expand in the crack. Wipe the excess away
with a cloth. Clamp the crack closed… DO NOT over clamp and break the stock
further. Allow the glue to set and dry. I left mine for twenty four hours. The next
day I removed the clamp, lightly sanded the remaining hardened glue from the
crack, and dabbed a little oil finish over the affected area. Good as new.
The problem with this resolution is, I know there is a repaired crack on my favorite
gun. So option number two, replace the stock, will be covered in next month’s
issue.